Beware the Chocolate of Chiapas
Our 0200 departure from Puerto Angel on 12/17 paid off. With the exception of a two-hour period of wind gusts and a wave increase, we motored and sailed through a relatively calm weather window during our 54-hour passage across the Gulf of Tehuantepec, arriving in Chiapas on 12/19.
Since Chiapas is a common point of entry and departure from Mexico, we were greeted by a customs official and several members of the Mexican Navy to process paperwork and conduct a drug search. The paperwork filing was conducted on board and the drug search was nothing more than a stroll around the deck with a drug-sniffing dog. The entire process felt professional, routine and friendly.
Once settled, we made a call to Miguel Ángel Álvarez Dávila. We had been told by many cruisers that if we planned to spend any time in Chiapas, "Be sure to call Miguel. He is a wonderful guy, and he will show you a good time." We can now confirm that Miguel is, in fact, a guy who is a joy to spend time with and has all the local connections to show visitors a very good time!
Miguel grew up in the town of Tuxtla Chico, Chiapas, Mexico. As he drove us from Marina Chiapas to Tuxtla Chico, he shared a wealth of information on local and historical topics such as the current immigration challenges at the Guatemalan border, the history of the Mayan and Aztec influence, the most common local agricultural products and, perhaps most proudly, the claim that Tuxtla Chico is at the heart of the earliest known cultivation of chocolate. Archeologists have discovered evidence that people were enjoying chocolate in what is now the sate of Chiapas, Mexico as early as 1,900 BC.
In fact, as one story goes, in 1648 trouble began in Chiapas when a bishop of the local church became irritated by the female parishioners, who insisted that they needed to drink hot cocoa during mass to "settle their weak stomachs." Regardless, the bishop proceeded to ban the women of Chiapas from drinking chocolate during mass. In his travel writings, the English Dominican friar Thomas Gage tells how this restriction so outraged the women of the parish that the bishop was later found dead, having consumed a glass of chocolate laced with poison. To this day, there’s a popular Mexican refrain that goes, “Cuidado con el chocolate de Chiapas,” or “Beware the chocolate of Chiapas.”
Fortunately, we chose not to fear the chocolate.
Miguel drove us to meet and dine with Chepi Laparra at the Chocolateria Laparra. Miguel and Chepi proudly explained the local historical origins of cocoa and demonstrated the entire process of cocoa production, from picking a cocoa pod from a tree in the courtyard to drying, roasting and grinding the cocoa beans - all by hand. Chepi Laparra has traveled to Europe on two occasions, by invitation, to demonstrate her chocolatier technique at international culinary events.
Throughout our visit, we were welcomed and encouraged to participate in the process. We "tried" our skills at making tortillas and grinding cocoa. Chepi and her crew made it all look so easy; however, we learned that both tasks are clearly an acquired skill that we lack! We mentioned to Cheri that she must have the strongest arms in Tuxtla Chico from grinding cocoa by hand so often. She smiled and replied, “Yes, my husband never gets out of line!”
Among the many highlights of our visit was the breakfast we were served. It was a delicious, filling affair that included tamales with mole sauce, tortillas, quesadillas, pan, beans, salsas, a local drink called tascalate and, of course, hot cocoa! The chickens wandering about seemed relaxed and pleased by the vegetarian menu.
As we continue along this adventure, we are often learning valuable lessons. Some, of course, involve the art and joy of sailing. Others serve as reminders that cultures other than our own are rich with knowledge and experience and overflowing with welcoming kindness. During our stay in Chiapas, we were also reminded to occasionally stop and smell the chocolate.
Our plan is to leave the Chiapas Marina late this evening, as we set sail for Bahia del Sol, El Salvador. The arrival to the Bahia del Sol estuary involves a challenging bar crossing that requires an entry at peak high tide and a pilot boat. Since high tide is at 0715 on 2/26, and we have a 225 mile run ahead of us, a 3AM departure tonight should give us a little time to spare.
That puts us somewhere off the coasts of Guatemala and El Salvador during Christmas. Whatever your holiday plans, know that we will be thinking about and missing our dear family and friends.
Cheers!
Tim, Ned and John
Lynn and I are sure having fun reading these blog posts. It’s snowing tonight in Teton Valley and should be a powder day tomorrow. Glad Ned was able to find some local hot chocolate. I’ve never seen anyone drink as much hot cocoa as Ned did last year in Canada. Merry Christmas to all.
Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you all! Safe travels!